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Well, I've gotten the break in miles complete and everything is running great. Last night I had a set of 245-45-16's put on my stock NA wheels. They fit beautifully. A buddy of mine works at the local Allied shop and he had a setup of Dunlop Sport SP5000's that a guy ordered, but never came in and paid for. They aren't a usual stock item so he sold em to me dirt cheap. I got them for $105 each. It was in the evening (7ish) and the store manager was gone and my friend was busy, so I asked him if I could take a wack at dismounting, mounting and balancing the new tires. I've seen it done several times so I figured I could do it. Piece-o-cake. I get a lot of satisfaction in doing things myself so this is just another DIY part of my project LOL. NEway, I setup a bypass (I dont have WGA solenoids) to raise the boost while my car was still in the bay at Allied. My guess on the jet sizes paid off(there are a total of 4 jets in my setup), it hit 14psi perfectly and OH-MY-GOD! This fucker flies! NA diffs rock! Slicktop TT's rule! Muhahahahahaha! So I picked up my brother after I left and we went to shoot some pool. Well, about an hour after we got there a buddy of mine called me up and asked me if I was interested in a little bit of street racing so I told him to meet me up at the bar where we were at. (BTW: I was NOT drinking at all). So we take off out of there and hit the interstate to get to the backroads where's it straight, level, and best of all, no cops. I hadn't taken my car on teh interstate since raising the boost as this was literally 3 hours after raising the boost. Well, this group of streetracers consisted of mainly DSMs. Some slow and some fast. We hit the interstate and everone starts to open em up. I am side by side with the fastest of their group and as I am pulling in 3rd gear at around 5500RPM (passing this DSM BTW) I feel a slight studdering. I'm watching the guages and listening to the engine as all of this is going on; good rich mixture (0.75V on O2s), no detonation. WTF? So I blast into 4th gear and by this time I am several car lengths on the DSM but the studdering continues. At about 120MPH in 4th I feel the hesitation again and let off this time. I remember when we jacked up the boost on VIk's TTZ (with JWT ECU) he too suffered from a bit of hesitation, but his clutch went out and he's been limpiung it along till he can get the cash together to get a new one so we never could trouble shoot the problem any more. Well, now I have the bug. I searched in FAQ and TECH to try and find information on hesitation, but the only thing I found from *name unmentioned* was a pathetic list of shit that doesn't directly answer any problems about hesitation at WOT. So, I converted an NA engine to TT, rebuilt it with TT internals, etc etc, but I am running NA plugs. The reason behind this is 1)It was cheaper to just re-use the NA plugs I just bought 10K miles ago to break in the car and 2) The TT plugs are longer and no one has been able to determine what the exact differences are between the TT and NA heads. It was once stated by Russell that the heads are thicker on the TT, but he couldn't confirm that, it was a guess based on the fact that the TT plugs are longer. But what he didn't consider was that the TT pistons are dished and the NA pistons are domed. The actual distance between the cylinder head and the piston is different between the models. In fact, it is about 3/8" difference. So the TT plugs MAY fit in my heads and not interfere with the pistons because the piston crown is actually lower than the NA pistons were. This hesitation problem has got to be ignition. Something is going amuck with the spark. There is no information anywhere on this site that goes into detail about plug gapping with respect to boosting, theory, etc etc etc. That is something that I would like to see. I am going to see if the TT plugs will fit without interference this week. I'm going to set cylinder #1 to TDC and screw in the plug (with a known gap) until I feel a bit of resistance and then turn it 1/2 turn and remove the plug. If the gap has changed, then it is the electrode interfering with the piston and not the crush seal on the plug being seated. This will let me find out if the TT plugs will fit. I'll let you all know about my findings, of course, but can anyone direct me to a really good webpage that describes what's going on in the combustion chamber while boosting that makes you have to change gaps and plug types in order for it to run correctly? Or can any of you out there fill me in?
Thanks!
My CarPuter Headquarters
[ ashleypowers.com ]
[ agpowers@bellsouth.net ] |
